Cycling from Rome to Bari via the Amalfi Coast

by tkos on August 26, 2012

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This route will take you passed the chaotic roads of Rome, the lost city of Napoli, a dip into the Amalfi coast and then across the middle of nowhere to Bari. Southern Italy is like a different country. The food changes, the heats gets hotter, the roads get crazier and  the Italians get bigger.

Wild camping is still something that we got used to, despite a few more warnings from locals. We never had any issues with anyone and would argue that Italy is completely safe, but to take usual precautions. We camped in our most brazen of locations including children’s playgrounds, fisherman’s piers and olive groves.

You can check out our daily route and some photos of the region below. And as usual, there is a table demonstrating our daily distance and town. Let us know if you’d like to know anything else or want to see some changes to the site. Enjoy!


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What we loved the most:

  • Pizza. It’s that simple. Go to Napoli and eat a Napoli pizza (capers, olives and anchovies).  But to be fair, pizza is my favourite food and there isn’t anywhere in the world that do it better than Italy.
  • All the random places in which we slept, including a playground, an olive grove and a busy fisherman’s pier!
  • We were lucky enough to get to a ‘how to make gelati’ course which will forever be treasured and replicated often.

What felt like a flat tyre:

  • The further you go south,the further you go into poverty. The coastal road from Rome to Napoli  felt like we were cycling through an African brothel. It was like nothing I had ever seen, with random women luring in the bushes on the side of the road every few hundred metres, for a solid 30 kilometre stretch. Weird.
  • Napoli was so run down and deserted, it felt like we were on a set of a movie after armageddon.  Graffiti is the biggest feature on the national monuments and you can’t help but feel that it is only a shadow of it’s former glory.

What we didn’t, but should’ve done:

  • Like the north of Italy, we stayed with my parents so we didn’t get to couch surf as much as you should.
  • Some basics would have been nice, like test driving a Ferrari or attending a football match wouldn’t have gone astray.

What’s it worth:

  • Over the 14 days in this neck of the woods, we spent £66.82 per day. As I write this, I have no idea what we spent so much on. We were careful everyday and camped wild as often as we could. We only stayed in two different hotels. The price includes a boat from Bari to Durres (Albania) also.


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TownKm'sNightsWhere we slept
Ostia551Wild Camp
Terracina1231Wild Camp
Meta505Apartment (with parents)
Montemiletto851Wild Camp (olive grove)
Bovino661Wild Camp (Playground)
Margarita901Wild Camp (pier)
Molfetta501Wild Camp



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